Cost to Install Metal Siding
Installing metal siding means preparing a sound, flat wall, setting trim and a level starter strip, then fastening overlapping panel courses that can move as temperatures change. It is a hard exterior project because the wall may need rotten wood replaced or furring added, and panels, openings, penetrations, and cut edges all need careful finishing.
Common reasons homeowners do this job
- Existing exterior siding is worn or damaged.
- Rotten wood or other damaged wall sections need repair before the exterior finish is installed.
- Uneven wall areas need furring before siding can go on.
- New exterior work needs breathable sheathing paper, metal panels, and trim.
- A homeowner is updating the outside of the home.
DIY or call a pro?
This is a hard job and should be handled by a professional. The installer must work around electrical service equipment, handle sharp panels and freshly cut edges, and avoid installation during high winds or extreme temperatures. Heavy gloves, eye protection, and hearing protection are needed when handling and cutting the metal.
Frequently asked questions
- Can I install metal siding myself, or should I hire someone?
- A professional should install metal siding. The job requires a sound, flat wall, accurately placed trim and starter strip, properly overlapped courses, and fasteners that allow the panels to move as temperatures change.
- What makes metal siding installation cost more?
- The price scales with the wall area, labor time, and materials. Larger wall areas and work that takes longer require more installation effort and siding components.
- Why should metal siding fasteners be left slightly loose?
- Panels need room to move with temperature changes. Fasteners go through the centers of slotted holes and should be left slightly loose; leaving space for expansion at the first panel is also important.
- What should be checked before installing the starter strip?
- Inspect for rotten wood and replace damaged sections, then check for uneven areas that need furring. Fixtures and service components that must be removed or avoided should be located before marking a level baseline with a chalk line.
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